Sunday, June 13, 2010

Volubilis and the Jinn spirits






We went on our first class trip for Contemporary Issues in North Africa yesterday to the ruins at Volubilis. It was a Moroccan political capital that was seized by the Romans. The major architecture that still exists is left over from the Roman takeover, but there are huge Moroccan influences, obviously. Most of the ruins were underground--a few tops of buildings showing here and there--but in 1920, a group of French archaeologist came and "restored" the city. The way they did it would NEVER be "okayed" in today's standards. They unearthed all the ruin, then took all the ruble where it stood and rebuilt the buildings.
What was really cool was that the Mosaic floorings (see picture above) were completely intact when the French arrived. The most expensive floors were made of glass.
At one point during our tour, our teacher got into a public shouting match (in French, so I got to translate for the classmates) with a Moroccan tour guide. The guide was telling another group that a public atrium used for large formal meetings was a bathhouse and he was lounging in it for pictures (I guess this is a common tourist trap). Our teacher actually warned us that they did this before we witnessed the Moroccan guide doing it to his group. Our teacher started laying into the guide and the guide started to claim that his grandfather unearthed these ruins....bla bla bla. All in all--the Moroccan was ready for blood, and our homo-teacher backed down. Still, showed a real side of immaturity on our teacher's part for not just shutting up, and it let us witness the power of tourism and false history in the making.
A really cool part about Volubilis is that it's completely open. You can touch anything you want to, with the exception of a couple Mosaics (but they're only guarded by a piece of twine). People were climbing up and over all of the stone ruins.
After Volubilis we stopped to see the people possessed by the Jinn spirits. Supposedly a woman goddess (Moslayleela sp?) entrances the men and they act completely possessed (you would think it's a tourist trap, but they're not looking for money--they're looking for help from this group of healers called "the brothers"). Some men were rolling around on the ground, shaking violently. Others were barking and biting like dogs. The cure for this is to take a trip this magical washing fountain of the spirits (where we were). The brothers say a prayer for your soul, you wash in the fountain, and leave a piece of your old world behind to throw over the cliff representing rebirth into a new life.
A side note -- these "brothers" have more than doubled the success rate of modern medicine when it comes to curing mental illnesses which they relate to possession.
To demonstrate the power of the water, some men would cut themselves with glass bottles (smash them over their heads, or just slice their skin) then wash in the water. After a few minutes, there wouldn't even be a mark. INSANE!

4 comments:

Anonymous said...

abber, I didn't recognize you at first in the headscarf--just wondered who that Arabic woman was!@#! Was Volubilis an ancient city only, or is it also a current city? How was Rabat itself?? Is it a fun group on the weekend trips?? Is your French coming back strongly??? xoxoxo, yo momma,dupwho loves Arabic women in orange headscarves

Anonymous said...

way to go on the 2nd test!!!! tell me more about Jinn spirits and your French coming back!!! Hey, remember to add Grandma and Lindy to the blog--(BAV2600@aol.com and MVMichael25@yahoo.com) answer me, answer me--love you. love you, love you Ma

Abbie said...

hey mom... tell grandma and a lindy i cant add anybody to the blog.. doesnt work like that. they just go to abbiehaley.blogspot.com and everything will pop up for them!

Carey said...

Hey Ab - love the blog posts! We miss you tons. I agree with mom - I had to do a triple take of the headscarf picture - didn't recognize you.